The Safari Never Ends

As our seven weeks at SUJÁN Jawai come to an end, I find myself looking back with a sense of gratitude and quiet astonishment. Returning to the southern reaches of Rajasthan is always a joy for our family. Jawai - the land of leopards - has been a constant in my life for the past twelve years. It is a landscape I know intimately, one I’ve watched evolve, recover, and reclaim its wildness in ways that once felt impossible.

When I first arrived here, the idea of a full rewilding programme felt more like a dream than a plan. Today it stands as one of the most successful conservation and restoration projects in India. That success hasn’t come easily. It has taken the commitment of dozens of people across more than a decade—field teams, community partners, landowners, researchers, and the incredible SUJÁN staff who care deeply for this place.

The results are everywhere you look. Nilgai, once absent from these hills after years of hunting pressure, are returning with confidence; my record this trip was ten individuals in a single sighting. When we began, it took me more than two years to see even one. The same is true for wild boar. From the occasional lone animal, we now see thriving, breeding families moving through the scrub and grasslands.

And the leopards, the heart of Jawai, have not only increased in number, but have relaxed in their behaviour. The quality of sightings now is something I never dared imagine. In truth, I believe Jawai has become one of the most exciting leopard-viewing destinations on Earth.

Over the years we’ve recorded thousands of sightings, each one logged and documented. The field team here has grown into a group of extraordinary trackers and naturalists, capable of reading the ancient granite hills with a precision that borders on art. This season I’ve focused on training three new guides, helping to pass on knowledge to the next generation - the people who will help future guests understand and interpret this remarkable landscape.

What sets SUJÁN Jawai apart is not only the wildlife. It’s the spirit of the place, the warmth of the community, and the commitment to offering world-class experiences; whether in a vehicle, on foot, during a village walk, or while sharing time with herdsmen and their livestock. The team continues to refine, grow, and stay true to our goal: to be the best field team in India.

On a personal level, these weeks have been made even more special by watching my family grow within this space. Leo and Kipling have woven themselves into camp life. Their laughter, curiosity, and boundless energy bring joy to guests and staff alike. To see them immersed in local culture; celebrations, traditions, ceremonies, food, is one of the great privileges of raising them the way we do. My wife has continued her English communication sessions with the team, giving staff the confidence to speak more comfortably with guests. It has made a tangible difference and has been appreciated by everyone.

Two sightings from this season stand out for me. The first was discovering F2 (a female leopard we have known for years) denning relatively close to camp. To sit quietly with her and her three tiny cubs felt like witnessing something sacred. A decade ago, such a moment would have been unthinkable. F2 traces her lineage back to the first leopard we ever identified here. Her cubs are the great-great-great-granddaughters of that original cat. Their presence is living proof of what long-term protection and partnership can achieve.

The second was a simple yet profound scene: a family of Nilgai feeding on berries in the middle of a grassland. Just four years ago that very spot was a mustard field, and any wildlife that ventured in would have been chased away. Today the farmer who once needed that land for crops now works with us to restore and protect it. He takes pride in the return of wildlife, and the Nilgai now roam and breed freely. Moments like this remind me why we do what we do.

Next for us: the boys and Diana head to South Africa for Christmas, while I first make a detour to Kenya. I’ll be guiding a photographic safari and running a Lights, Camera, Wilderness training course for guides at Ol Pejeta in central Kenya. I’ll also be hosting The Greatest Wildlife Photographer of the Year awards ceremony in Nairobi, a celebration of the extraordinary photographic talent emerging from across Kenya.

Seven weeks in Jawai have come to an end, but the journey continues.The safari never ends.

If you’ve ever thought about travelling to India, I would be honoured to show you around this place that means so much to me. And if you’re as passionate about wildlife, culture, and transformative experiences as I am, why not join me in Jawai?

I’ll be back here from January through March next year, and I’d love nothing more than to guide you through the granite hills, introduce you to our remarkable field team, and share the magic of this land. Please do get in touch... I’d be thrilled to help you plan a trip that changes the way you see wild India.