The Delta in Flood: Wild Dogs, Leopards, and the Magic of Water

This September I returned to the Okavango Delta with two guests who have become much more than clients—they are now dear friends. Each year we travel together, we build on our shared love of the wilderness, our laughter stretches from sunrise to well past sunset, and our conversations dive deep into conservation, safari design, and the challenges facing Africa’s wild spaces.

My role is to guide them further: to connect them with the land, its wildlife, and its people. I document their journey so that they can watch and feel without distraction, leaving the phones behind and absorbing the moments fully.

This year, the Delta was exceptional. Floodwaters surged higher than they have in decades, transforming the region into a dazzling mosaic of rivers and islands. It was, without doubt, the Okavango at its most beautiful.

Vumbura Plains

Our journey began at Vumbura Plains in the northern Delta, where wild dogs immediately took centre stage. Over the course of our stay, we encountered a remarkable pack of 28 dogs. We watched them bound across floodplains, launch into high-speed chases, and even succeed in one hunt of a Reedbuck. To spend such quality time with Africa’s most endangered predator—thriving in such numbers—was both exhilarating and uplifting.

Between the action, we took time to pause and notice the finer details. The Apple-leaf trees were in flower, covering the landscape in delicate lilac blossoms. Against the backdrop of flooded channels and racing wild dogs, these quiet floral displays were a reminder of the Delta’s layered beauty.

Little Mombo

From there we moved south to Mombo, where the experience shifted in character but not in intensity. Leopards dominated our time here, with four different individuals giving us some of the best sightings imaginable. We saw them draped in trees, prowling purposefully through the bush, chasing warthogs in bursts of raw energy, and resting in golden light, utterly at peace. Each encounter felt cinematic, perfectly lit and full of behaviour.

We were equally enchanted by the Sausage Trees in bloom, their large maroon flowers dropping heavily to the ground. Bat-pollinated at night, these blossoms are relished by impalas by day—turning the trees into natural hunting grounds. We searched each flowering Sausage Tree, aware that leopards often lie in wait above, ready to ambush their prey. This marriage of botany, behaviour, and predator-prey dynamics is what makes Mombo so endlessly fascinating.

And then there was the raw power: two male lions dragging a freshly killed buffalo out of a flooded channel – muscles straining. A scene of intensity that left us in awe.

Xigera

Our final stop was Xigera, a lodge that is as exquisite in design as it is in location. It is hard not to be swept away by the sheer beauty of this camp. The attention to detail here is arguably the finest in Africa—everywhere you look there is thought, intention, and creativity.

In the rooms, even the smallest touches delight: a set of watercolours invites you to paint during quiet moments of downtime; the light switches are cleverly labelled so that their use feels intuitive; and the laundry service returns your clothes so immaculately presented that you almost want to send items out simply to marvel at how they will come back. Add to this an extraordinary wine cellar, imaginative use of space and light, an outstanding art collection, and service that is both warm and precise, and you have a lodge that is the very epitome of luxury safari.

And yet, for all its refinement, Xigera remains rooted in wilderness. It was here that we had two of the most gripping sightings of the entire safari: a female leopard high in a tree, locked in a tug-of-war with the last remnants of carcass of a male impala. She pulled and twisted, muscles rippling as she rearranged her prize among the branches. On our final drive of the trip we found a pack of 9 Wild Dogs – followed them as they trotted with determination through the flood plains. Next, came and explosion of speed – we watched them catch up with a male Red Lechwe; what followed next was both haunting, and mesmerizing. There sightings were wild, raw, and unforgettable—the perfect counterpoints to the lodge’s elegance.

More Than a Safari

Beyond the extraordinary wildlife, what set this journey apart was the depth of the experience. On private guided safaris, the animals are only part of the story. The real magic lies in context, conversation, and connection. Together we laughed, debated, tasted fine wines, shared stories, and wrestled with the truths of conservation. My aim is always that guests leave as participants, not just spectators—engaged, challenged, and inspired.

The Okavango Delta is always remarkable, but in a year of such high waters, it felt truly enchanted. From the wild dogs of Vumbura to the leopards of Mombo and Xigera, this was a safari none of us will soon forget.